Independent Spirit Thrives in Cardiff’s Historic Arcades

Every time I walk through Cardiff’s arcades I am struck by how much they give the city its character. These Victorian and Edwardian passages are atmospheric, eclectic and alive with independent businesses, many of them family-owned. They provide something that would be almost impossible to recreate elsewhere: a shopping experience rooted in history, individuality and passion.

My own family has been part of this story for decades. My grandfather first opened Bridge Street Stores – later Continental Delicatessen – in Bridge Street in 1949. When that area was redeveloped, my father relocated the business to the Royal Arcade in 1981, and the business was renamed Wally’s. At the time, the Royal Arcade was a thoroughfare, linking the train and bus stations to the city centre. It was busy, vibrant, and full of people heading through to Queen Street or St David’s.

Over time the city has changed shape. The St David’s Centre has been redeveloped, and for a period the bus station disappeared. But the Royal Arcade has remained lively. What was once considered a tertiary shopping location has become a prime spot. Being here has allowed us not only to survive but to thrive.

What makes the arcades so special is the mix of businesses they nurture. You can find coffee shops, antique centres, jewellers, toy shops, plant sellers and much more. For me, the real magic lies in the fact that these businesses are almost all independent. You are dealing with owners who are present every day, sharing their passion directly with customers. That passion is hard to replicate in a larger shopping centre.

Over the years Wally’s has had premises in more than one arcade. We were in Castle Arcade for a time, which I think is the prettiest of them all, with its ornate balcony and distinctive architecture. We have also twice had units in Grand Arcade, the newer thoroughfare created when St David’s expanded. But Royal Arcade has always been our anchor. This is where customers know us, and where the delicatessen and Kaffeehaus continue to grow.

I often look around and think how lucky Cardiff is. I travel to other cities and see their retail centres, but it is rare to find such a concentration of independent shops right at the heart of things. Without the arcades, many of us would struggle to trade in the city centre at all. They give independents a foothold, and in doing so, they give Cardiff something distinctive that sets it apart from other cities.

This year the City of Arcades season has returned, with 70 days of events, activities and celebrations across the arcades and St David’s Dewi Sant. Established by FOR Cardiff in 2018, the campaign puts the spotlight on these historic walkways as a cultural and retail destination. I was closely involved in FOR Cardiff as a director in its early days, helping shape initiatives like City of Arcades, and it is heartening to see how much it has grown.

The season is a reminder of how much the arcades contribute to Cardiff’s identity. They are not just shopping spaces but part of the city’s fabric, weaving together history, commerce and community. In our case, they also hold the story of three generations of my family, from refugees building a new life after the war to a business that has become a Cardiff institution.

I have recently finished writing a book that traces this journey. From the Anschluss to the Arcades tells the story of my family’s escape from Nazi Europe, our establishment in South Wales, and the evolution of the delicatessen through decades of change. It reflects on how Cardiff has developed as a business city and how food culture has shifted over time. The arcades run through it all, providing a stage on which our story has played out.

For me, and for many others, the arcades are more than just retail units. They are places of atmosphere and discovery, where the city’s independent spirit thrives. At a time when so many high streets look alike, Cardiff’s arcades offer something unique – and that is worth celebrating.

Running to November 14 2025, City of Arcades returns for 70 days of events, activities, and celebrations across Cardiff’s iconic Victorian and Edwardian arcades and St. David’s Dewi Sant arcade. Established by FOR Cardiff in 2018, the campaign shines a spotlight on the arcades as a distinctive retail, leisure, and cultural destination at the heart of the Welsh capital.

The 2025 edition features five themed fortnights – Foodie, Discovery, Arts & Music, History, and Health & Beauty – each designed to showcase the best of Cardiff’s independent businesses and celebrate the arcades’ unique heritage. From special markets and live performances to creative workshops and hidden gems, the campaign brings together locals and visitors alike to experience the arcades in new and exciting ways.